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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.